Whether you are considering the purchase of your first sit-on-top kayak, or simply want to do more with the one you have, I wrote this article for you.
In the next few minutes we’ll discuss literally everything I can think of that you need to know to use a sit-on-top kayak. Not only that, we’ll discuss how to do all of these things even better than you did before.
Table of Contents
How to lift and carry a sit-on-top-kayak
One of the first places you need to lift your sit-on-top kayak is from the ground and onto the top of your vehicle.
I wrote an in-depth article about how to lift and carry any kayak by yourself that you can review when convenient.
Lifting a sit-on-top kayak onto a crossbar roof rack
The two most common roof rack designs are crossbars and J-cradles.
When reading the steps below to load your kayak, follow along with the image above.
When lifting your kayak onto a crossbar rack, it is easiest to do so from the rear of the vehicle.
Step 1. Place the stern of your kayak such that it is behind your vehicle, close to the middle and less than a boat-length away.
The bow should be pointing either to the right or left of the stern.
Step 2. While keeping the stern on the ground, lift the bow of the kayak into the air.
Step 3. Holding the bow of your kayak in the air, walk it over to your vehicle and lean it against the roof edge.
Using an assist device (an attachment to your roof rack that reduces wear and tear on your vehicle roof) is an alternative – particularly if you lease your vehicle.
Step 4. Leave the bow of your kayak leaning against the vehicle. Walk to the stern of the kayak and lift it.
With the kayak bow leaning on the vehicle roof, you should now be supporting the weight of the kayak in the air.
Step 5. From your position holding up the stern of the kayak, push the entire kayak forward onto the roof of your vehicle.
Step 6. Once the kayak is in place, secure it and lock it. (More on locking your kayak below.)
Lifting a sit-on-top kayak onto a J-cradle roof rack
If you transport your kayak on a J-cradle roof rack, then lifting it onto the top of your vehicle is going to take some brawn.
The first sequence for lifting your sit-on-top kayak helps you lift it onto your shoulder.
While the image above and sequence below are effective for lifting a sit-on-top kayak, you’ll likely find everything slightly more challenging because of the shallow cockpit of this type of boat.
Nevertheless, we press on.
Step 1. Stand next to the kayak with the bow facing the same direction as the front of the vehicle. (In this explanation, I’ll assume you’re standing on the left-hand side of the cockpit.)
Step 2. Bend your knees and squat.
(In the accompanying image, the paddler holds her arms out the sides. In reality, it will be much more helpful to hold your arms in front of you to maintain balance.)
Step 3. Pull the kayak up your leg, leaning it on its side against your leg so that the cockpit is facing away from you.
Step 4. Take hold of the near side of the cockpit opening (the one that is furthest from the ground).
Pull the kayak up your leg so that that its bottom is sitting on your thigh.
(Remember, you’re still in the squat position.)
Step 5. Pull the cockpit towards your body and onto your right shoulder.
Again, this might be tricky if your kayak has a shallow cockpit wall. You may need to support the boat with a hand.
Step 6. Assuming that you are successful in lifting the kayak to your shoulder, the final step is to regrip it and lift it.
Support the kayak with your right hand as it sits on your shoulder.
Take hold of the other side of the kayak – gripping the upper cockpit wall with your left hand.
Lift the kayak onto the J-Cradle.
Step 7. When in place, secure the kayak to the cradle and lock it.
How to lock one to your roof rack
In an earlier article entitled: How to prevent kayak theft by developing a theft deterrence strategy, I discuss three strategies for locking a kayak to your roof rack.
The principles that I embrace when trying to keep my kayak from being stolen are 1. Visibility – positioning your kayak in plain sight, 2. Security – Using high quality locks that can’t be easily cut; and 3. Complexity – Using a locking strategy that takes a while for a would-be thief to understand.
In the article above, I suggested three potential strategies to lock a kayak to your roof rack.
Lasso Kayak Security Cable
This is a locking mechanism that includes a long cord that wraps around the kayak and attaches it to the roof rack.
It is simple to use and affordably available on Amazon.
This lock will keep the average Joe from simply lifting your boat from the roof rack and walking away. However, the cable is thin and can be easily compromised.
The Lasso Kayak Security Cable serves a purpose, but it is only a single snip with a cheap pair of bolt cutters-away from being stolen.
Complex Locking Strategy #1
This strategy includes a Lasso Kayak Security Cable, Chain Lock and ‘The Club’ steering wheel lock.
Used together, these three locks strike a balance between strength, complexity and affordability, keeping your kayak very safe without breaking the bank.
Complex Locking Strategy #2
This locking strategy is intended for very expensive kayaks and is likely overkill, anyway.
If you have a $5,000+ fibreglass kayak that you want to keep safe, then consider this proposed locking strategy of wheel clamps, D-locks and chain locks to keep your kayak safe from, not just individual thieves, but full-on societal revolution.
If you’re looking for some sit-on-top kayak-security inspiration or simply want a chuckle, have a look at this locking strategy.
How to carry a sit-on-top kayak
The average recreational sit-on-top kayak weighs 58 lbs, is 11.5’ long and 29.98” wide.
The average sit-on-top fishing kayak (non-pedal) weighs 77.6 lbs, is 12.5’ long and 33” wide.
How do I know? I measured a couple hundred kayaks to find out.
What’s important about all of this is that you have to carry these long, wide, heavy beasts – often by yourself.
Using kayak carry straps
Sit-on-top kayaks can be toted around with carry straps.
These inexpensive straps loop through your scupper holes and then sling over one of your shoulders. This allows you to carry your sit-on-top like a huge, awkward, polyethylene purse.
Straps are an effective solution when your vehicle is less than 50 yards from your put-in location. Any further and they begin to get a little unwieldy.
Also, on a windy day, that kayak slung over your shoulder can act an awful lot like a sail.
Using a kayak cart
If you are paddling alone, or need to transport a kayak full of gear from your vehicle to a put-in location that is over 50 yards away (50 yards of smooth terrain, that is) then a kayak cart can be helpful.
Position the cart under the balance point at the back half of your kayak and attach the kayak to the cart according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Once attached, pull the kayak to your put-in destination of choice.
In the interest of transparency, and with an increased interest in kayak fishing, I have warmed up to the idea of kayak carts.
(I think my pride got in the way of carting my touring kayak from vehicle to put-in location. Like a fool, I thought I needed to carry my boat to be a true man.)
However, the argument that my lower back now advances as I get older, trumps anything my pride ever had to say about being a man carrying a boat!
Also of note, you’ll need to lock up your kayak cart to keep it from being stolen. Consider reading the article on locking your belongings up that I referenced earlier.
How to enter and launch a sit-on-top kayak
There are lots of places where you might find yourself needing to get in your sit-on-top kayak.
Let’s discuss a few of them.
Entering your kayak from shore
Step 1. Wade out into the water until there is just enough water to float your kayak with you in it.
(I calculate the minimum amount of water you’ll need to comfortably float your kayak with you in it to be 4-5”.)
By the way, plan to get wet when launching from shore.
Step 2. Once your kayak is sitting on top of 4-5” of water, make sure the kayak bow is facing open water.
If your kayak is sideways to the waves flowing inland, you’ll never get anywhere and will probably capsize.
If you are trying to launch in significant waves, wait for a lull between sets before getting in your boat.
Step 3. Straddle your kayak just behind the cockpit.
Step 4. Place your paddle behind your back and perpendicular to your kayak.
Position your hands shoulder-width apart and lean back on the shaft to provide stability.
Step 5. Drop your bottom into the kayak seat.
Step 6. Gather your legs and feet (which are hopefully still attached) back into the boat.
Step 7. Adjust everything inside your kayak and paddle away.
How to your kayak from a dock
Consider this the more civilized approach to entering and launching a sit-on-top kayak
Step 1. If you are kayaking with friends or family, recruit someone to help stabilize your kayak.
They could be standing on the dock or floating in their own kayak (that you helped them enter – they owe you one).
Step 2. Search out the lowest point on the dock. The smaller the distance between dock and water, the easier it is to actually get in the kayak.
Step 3. Place the sit-on-top kayak on the water, parallel to the dock.
Step 4. To create stability, either take hold of the outer kayak wall (furthest from the dock) or place your paddle shaft behind the cockpit.
(This really only works if the difference between the dock height and kayak height are minimal.)
Step 5. Assuming a high dock, sit your bottom on the dock and place your feet one at a time in the kayak.
Step 6. With two feet in your kayak, lean the front of your upper body on the dock. This keeps your centre of gravity low.
Step 7. Slide your feet further into the kayak and your body down the edge of the dock, towards the kayak.
Step 8. While still holding onto the dock, position your posterior in the kayak seat.
Adjust your legs, grab your paddle and off you go.
By the way, watch out for those dock spiders. They can be a little startling.
If you are entering your kayak anywhere along the Canadian Shield in northern Ontario cottage country, then it’s likely you’ll find yourself entering your kayak from big granite rocks, rather than a dock.
That’s ok. Treat the rocks just like a dock and use the same technique outlined above.
To exit your sit-on-top kayak, simply reverse the steps.
How to paddle a sit-on-top kayak
To stay safe and avoid injury, it’s important to learn, as well as periodically review, the principals of effective paddling.
Good paddling posture
Effective paddling technique starts with good posture.
This means sitting up straight.
Lounging in your kayak seat is fine, but when it comes time to paddle, adjust your seat so that it promotes and supports upright posture.
Along with a straight back, your feet should be comfortably secured against the foot pedals with legs open and slightly splayed. This allows you to keep a firm connection to the kayak.
Learn and practice the ‘Paddler’s Box’
The ‘paddler’s box’ refers to the position of your hands relative to your torso.
To trace the paddler’s box, hold your paddle in front of you. The rectangular space created between your paddle shaft, arms and torso is the paddler’s box.
As you execute paddle strokes on each side of your kayak, keep the paddler’s box intact by pivoting your torso towards the side of the kayak where you are making the stroke.
Maintaining the paddler’s box is key to maximizing the power of each stroke while at the same time protecting your shoulders from injury.
Learn the kayak strokes that will get you where you want to go
If you are a new paddler, there are several key kayak strokes that you ought to become proficient in.
If you are an experienced paddler, you may have already mastered them – whether or not you know their actual names.
Among these kayak strokes are: Forward and Reverse Sweep, Draw Stroke, Stern Draw/Rudder, Bow Draw/Rudder.
As well as learning the strokes, it can also be important to learn and practice the Hip Snap, Low Brace and High Brace. These are more technical strategies that can help you when the water in which you’re paddling becomes challenging.
When it comes to learning these strokes and techniques, I think it’s best to watch videos to see what they actually look like and how they make your kayak behave.
There are plenty of these videos on YouTube. To get you started, try this one by Brad from REI.com.
How to get back in a sit-on-top kayak after falling out
There usually comes a time in every paddler’s career when they are forced to get back in a kayak after falling out.
Sometimes this occurs in shallow water. Often times the water is deep.
I wrote a comprehensive article discussing three different ways to get back in a kayak after falling out.
How to re-enter your kayak using the Brute Force Method
This was the first method that I described in the above-mentioned article and is a particularly good method of re-entry for sit-on-top kayaks because of the relative stability of this type of boat (how did you manage to flip it, anyway?)
Step 1. Keep your paddle close. Keep an eye on it or, preferably, secure it to your kayak.
Step 2. Flip your kayak back over if it is upside down.
Position your body at the middle of the kayak – halfway between the bow and the stern.
Reach over the top of the hull (which is facing the sky because the kayak has flipped over).
Grab the far edge of the kayak and fall back. It’s helpful to have a rope or cord to do this.
As you fall back, your kayak will flip back over.
Step 3. With your kayak floating upright, position your body halfway between the bow and stern of your boat, again.
Step 4. With one hand, take hold of the near handle or nearest cockpit coaming.
With your other hand, reach over the kayak and take hold of the handle or cockpit coaming on the far side of the kayak.
Step 5. With a supporting kick, pull your self out of the water so that you are laying perpendicularly across your kayak and your belly is facing the kayak seat.
Step 6. Get your bottom back in the seat. To do this, roll over and twist your body such that your bottom drops back in the seat and you are sitting side-saddle on the boat.
Step 7. Swing your legs back into the kayak and position your feet back against the footwells.
Step 8. Collect your paddle which is secured to your boat but still floating around somewhere.
In the article referenced above, I outlined two more re-entry techniques entitled Reverse PaddleGirl and Itchy Bum Stern Straddle.
These are not technical names, they are my names.
Feel free to consider these techniques as well.
There are lots of different ways to re-enter a sit-on-top kayak after falling out. If you don’t have a go-to technique, then start learning about them and figure out which is most comfortable for you.
The good news is, because you’re paddling a sit-on-top kayak, if you capsize, your boat won’t fill up with water so there won’t be any pressing need for a bilge pump.
How (and why) to use scupper plugs
If your sit-on-top kayak capsizes, why exactly won’t it fill up with water? Because of the scupper holes, of course.
Scupper holes are drilled through sit-on-top kayaks and allow water that enters the cockpit to drain back out.
Essentially, scupper holes make sit-on-top kayaks sink-proof. Sure, the kayak can capsize, but it won’t fill up with water and it won’t sink.
That’s a heck of a safety feature.
However, there is a dark side to scupper holes.
When wind picks up and water gets choppy, scupper holes allow water to actually flow up and into your kayak. Sure, this water flows back out again, but not before it soaks your daisy-dry posterior, leaving you feeling like you’re sitting in a cold, wet diaper.
The solution to this problem is to use scupper plugs.
Scupper plugs are simply rubber/plastic plugs that fit in the scupper holes of your kayak. These plugs prevent water from flowing into your kayak and soaking your touche.
Sounds perfect, right? Well, not exactly.
If you do run into wind and waves, this increases the likelihood that your kayak will capsize. The safety feature of the sit-on-top kayak is the scupper hole that keeps the kayak from taking on water and sinking.
But wait, you clogged those scupper holes with scupper plugs. Now, if you capsize, the risks are higher.
You’ll need to pump water out of your boat before it drifts down to Davey Jones’ locker.
Scupper plugs are easy to use. All you need to do is push the plug in when you want to keep water out and remove it when you’re done.
They are a great way of keeping your bottom dry while paddling a sit-on-top kayak.
The tradeoff for this comfort is safety. Scupper holes bail water from your kayak. If there is water in your kayak that requires bailing and it can’t happen through the scupper holes, then you’ll need to bail it yourself.
When it comes to the use of scupper plugs in a sit-on-top kayak, simply be thoughtful and exercise good judgement.
How to stay dry on a sit-on-top kayak
The open design of sit-on-top kayaks naturally means that the paddler is particularly exposed to getting wet.
Now, hard-core paddlers always seem to say that you should expect to get wet if you are going to play on big bodies of water.
But is it really so bad to seek out a little comfort while paddling one’s kayak? I don’t think so.
In my experience, you can control your dry-ness quotient on a sit-on-top kayak by 1. Dressing in water-repellant clothing, 2. Executing a low-splash paddle stroke, 3. Optimizing your kayak floor and seat for dryness, and 4. Avoiding rainy and windy days altogether.
What clothes should you wear to stay dry?
Start right at your noggin and put on a hat
One with a 360 degree brim will keep you nice and dry by directing water away from your face as well as that sneaky spot at the back of your neck where running water always seems to somehow gain access to your entire back (and plumber’s crack).
Get a hat with a chinstrap, otherwise you won’t own it for very long.
Choose the right water-repellant upper for the occasion
The right selection could be a GoreTex shell, a drysuit, or even a wetsuit, depending on the temperature and level of wet that you anticipate.
A drysuit is an aggressive outfit built to keep you really dry.
Drysuits are constructed from foam neoprene, crushed neoprene, heavy-duty nylon or even vulcanized rubber. They fit more loosely than a diving wetsuit and are usually used in cold environments when getting wet really, really sucks.
They’re not known to breathe all that well so at the end of the day, you might find yourself soaking wet, anyway.
A less-aggressive alternative to a drysuit is a GoreTex shell. GoreTex is a magical fabric that is durable and highly water-resistant but at the same time, really breathable.
GoreTex keeps the outside water from getting in, but still allows the inside water (generated by your body) to get out.
It is a fabric that is just as useful in warm climates as it is in cold ones.
A high-quality GoreTex garment can be pricey, but is absolutely worth it.
Also, because GoreTex is so durable, it can make a lot of noise rubbing against itself while you paddle. This is a small price to pay for the comfort it provides, but something you should be spiritually prepared for.
Similar to selecting the appropriate upper garment, you’ll also need to choose something for your southern regions. Ideally, this will be similar in material to what you’re sporting up top, be it a drysuit, GoreTex, or something completely different.
Whatever you do, keep cotton garments off your kayak (and body). When they get wet they become super-heavy and take, like six weeks to dry. For your own sanity, avoid them.
Execute a shallow paddle stroke to keep dry
If you want to stay drier in your sit-on-top kayak, don’t drive your paddle blade vertically into the water. Insert it at a shallower angle.
When you do this, the upper blade won’t travel over your head and cockpit and soak you over time, with a thousand droplets.
A shallower stroke will be slower but drier.
Also, consider using paddle drip rings. These rings attach towards the end of your shaft outside of where you position your hands.
They are used to keep water from running down your paddle and onto your hands and clothing.
Optimize your kayak floor for dryness
If you are an angler, then your fishing kayak likely sports a high seat that keeps your posterior off the bottom of your boat.
If you want to keep your posterior dry in your boat, lifting it off the kayak floor is a key tactic to pursue.
The tradeoff of a higher seat is, of course, reduced stability. However, sit-on-top kayaks are already designed with stability in mind so, that’s helpful.
Enter your sit-on-top kayak gingerly. The more carefully you enter your sit-on-top kayak, the less water will squirt up the scupper holes and into your kayak.
Consider using scupper plugs only as you enter your kayak. If you have a, shall we say, ‘robust’ build, consider inserting scupper plugs before you enter your kayak.
Once you’re positioned in your seat, remove them for safety.
Use a kayak sponge and bilge pump. A sponge is a super-simple tool to soak up pesky puddles before they expand into something that makes you uncomfortable.
Also, while a bilge pump is usually used to empty out a kayak that has taken on a lot of water, it can really be used for any standing water. If you choose to keep your scupper plugs in place, a bilge pump can be used to expel water that is excessive for a sponge but not so bad that the scuppers need to be opened.
How to pack and prepare your sit-on-top for expedition
Not all sit-on-top kayaks can be used for camping and expeditions. However, the ones with storage certainly can.
I wrote an article all about packing for kayak expeditions.
Packing in a sit-on-top kayak has its own unique challenges.
Below are some general principals to consider when packing a sit-on-top kayak for an overnight/multi-day camping trip.
1. Use dry bags for everything that must remain waterproof. It is vitally important to keep your sleeping gear and clothing dry.
Match the size of your dry bags with the size of the storage in your sit-on-top kayak.
Test-loading at home will save you time at your put-in location. As you do this, get to know all of the potentially usable nooks and crannies located in your boat.
2. Pack the following items so they are quickly accessible: First aid kit, emergency supplies (including signalling devices), snacks, bad-weather gear, water filter.
Remember the first item you pack will be the last item you unpack.
3. Keep your deck as empty as possible. If necessary, you can place the following items up top: compass, maps, radio, emergency devices, water, snacks.
Keep this gear tied down so the wind doesn’t pick them up and drop them somewhere else.
Some of these things can actually be attached to your personal floatation device.
Do your best to keep your kayak deck as empty as possible. This will keep your kayak balanced and reduce wind drag.
4. Load your sit-on-top kayak evenly. Position the lightest loads that you don’t need immediate access to at the bow and stern.
Place the heaviest loads in the middle of the kayak. This includes drinking water – especially if you are traveling to an area where the potability of the local water is questionable.
Consider both bow-to-stern balance as well as side-to-side balance. Try to equalize both.
If there is any doubt about where to stow an item, place it in the rear of the kayak.
5. Place string loops on the dry bags so that you can later fish them out from the deep nooks and crannies into which you stowed them.
How to use a sit-on-top kayak for fishing
Sit-on-top kayaks have become the go-to model for kayak anglers.
They are constructed to be wide and stable, with the capacity to haul a heavy angler plus a lot of gear.
Fishing kayaks allow anglers an economic way to purchase and maintain a fishing boat. Plus, the small size of the kayak (relative to larger motorboats) allows the angler to reach harder-to-access fishing locations and to do so with stealth.
The game-changer however, is that on top of all the gear that these kayaks can haul, sit-on-top kayaks can also house pedal drives.
Pedal drives have changed the face of kayak-fishing.
How to use a kayak pedal drive
A pedal drive inserts into the kayak about a leg’s length from the kayak seat.
Two foot pedals sit on top of the kayak. A propeller or fin mechanism sits underneath the hull.
Depending on the drive model, the angler either pushes the pedals back and forth or pedals in a circular motion like a bicycle.
This motion propels the kayak forward. Sophisticated drive trains allow the angler to not only move forward, but backwards and in some cases 360 degrees, as well.
Occasionally, one of the angler’s hands must be used to adjust the direction of the rudder. Often, kayak fishing with a pedal mechanism is a hands-free operation.
This allows the angler to move and fish at the same time.
Is it better to use a fishing kayak that is propelled by pedals or a paddle?
I wrote an entire article addressing this single question.
My thoughts are as follows:
Pedal-powered kayaks are significantly faster than paddle-powered ones. You can reach your fishing destination quicker and with less fatigue.
Also, pedal-powered kayaks free up the angler’s hands to actually fish.
Paddle-powered kayaks offer a more pure kayaking experience.
Because there is no propeller or fin mechanism underwater, they can also be more stealthy.
If your interest is fishing and a kayak is simply a means to get you to the fish, then a pedal kayak is the way to go.
If you enjoy getting to your honey hole as much as you do fishing at your honey hole, then consider staying with paddle-power.
By the way, a pedal mechanism will usually increase the price of your boat by about $1,000. This is still way cheaper than a motorboat, but a meaningful amount of money in kayak-land, nonetheless.
How to cast from a fishing kayak
Because of the cramped quarters, casting a fishing line from a sit-on-top kayak requires different skills than rearing back and firing a missile off a motorboat.
I wrote an article all about how to cast from a fishing kayak that provides step-by-step instructions to execute various types of casts.
In the article, I discuss overhead and sidearm baitcaster techniques as well as close-quarter flip and pitch techniques.
I even discussed skip-casting as well as how to throw a cast net.
In my view, the key principles of casting from a sit-on-top fishing kayak include:
1. Keeping balance during the cast,
2. Avoiding tangle with the other gear on the boat,
3. Using techniques to cast close or cast far that are consistent with small-boat fishing,
4. Using anchoring techniques that keep the kayak from drifting away from the location.
There is much more that can be written about fishing from sit-on-top kayaks.
However, discussing pedals vs paddles as well as casting techniques to effectively get your lure on the fish seems like a good place to start (and end).
How to use a sit-on-top kayak – Parting thoughts
Sit-on-top kayaks are a genius-of-an-invention.
They provide increased safety and stability on the water.
They are wonderful boats for new entrants into the paddling world that desire a safe, manageable kayak at a fair price.
However, sit-on-top kayaks also represent the crème-de-la-crème of small-fishing vessels, allowing anglers to reach previously-unreachable locations with all of the gear that they would use on a larger boat.
Sit-on-top kayaks are not for everyone. But as the most interesting man in the world once noted: “those that like them, like them a lot.”