Purchasing your first kayak can feel like a daunting task. You’re been renting for awhile. Now it’s time to move forward. And sure, they all look kind of the same, but only in the same way that your two pet axolotls look kind of the same, as well.
The purpose of this article is to guide you through your decision-making process. I want to help you ask the right questions to funnel the entire landscape of kayak styles down to a few that might be best-suited for you.
Table of Contents
What is your previous paddling experience?
Do you have any previous paddling experience?
If your answer to this question is simply ‘none’, well that’s ok. It’s helpful to understand where you are starting from.
Alternatively, you might have spent the last three summers renting a sea kayak from a local outfitter to do overnight camping excursions.
Or perhaps your buddy has been lending you his extra fishing kayak so your gang can hit the local river together.
But perhaps the most important question about your previous experience, ‘have you ever taken a kayak lesson?’
Have you learned how to roll, wet-exit, re-enter, rescue, brace, and hip-snap. Obviously some of these skills are activity-specific. Still, your answers inform the type of kayak you should be considering.
Your first kayak should not be your last kayak
Kayaking is a skill that you’ll learn over time.
The kayak in which you learn beginning skills should not be the same one in which you learn intermediate and advanced skills.
Why not? Because their characteristics are different.
A beginner kayak is designed to provide optimal primary stability (the stability you experience when you sit in calm water), as well as easy maneuverability and reasonably straight tracking at an efficient touring speed.
An intermediate or advanced kayak will feel too ‘tippy’ for a beginning paddler. While the maximum potential speed of an advanced kayak is higher than that of a beginner one, a beginning paddler won’t have the skillset or experience to attain it.
In fact, the ‘tippy-ness’ of an advanced kayak may very well hinder the progression of a beginning paddler because they never get to a point where they even feel stable on calm water.
Don’t fall into the trap of buying more kayak than you can initially manage. Again, the risk is that a super-expensive advanced boat will likely hinder your learning process.
When you do feel comfortable on your beginner kayak and are ready to take on a narrower, tippier boat, you can always sell your old one on Craigslist or keep it around for wave-play.
What type of kayaking do you plan to do and where will you do it?
The type of kayaking you plan to do and the places you plan to do it determine the style of kayak you ought to select.
Shallow lazy rivers
If your kayaking adventures target slow, meandering rivers that keep you close to the banks and are shallow enough to stand up in, then the world is your oyster.
In other words, your performance requirements are sufficiently minimal that you have a wide selection of kayaks to choose from.
Sit-on-top vs. Sit-in
For light-river kayaking, either a recreational sit-on-top or a sit-in kayak can work well.
As a review, sit-on-top kayaks are constructed with an open cockpit that leaves the paddler’s legs and feet exposed to the sky.
The upside of the sit-on-top design is safety. These kayaks are installed with scupper holes that drain water from the cockpit. This makes sit-on-top kayaks virtually unsinkable.
The downside of these kayaks is that they don’t perform as well. You can’t effectively roll, brace or hip-snap a sit-on-top kayak.
While sit-on-top kayaks provide an easy way to get on the water, you can’t learn all of the paddling skills that you might desire in one.
Sit-on-top kayaks can be a really good beginner kayaks for situations where safety and ease-of-use are valued over performance.
In my database, the average recreational sit-on-top kayak weighs 58lbs, is 11.5’ long and 30” wide.
Sit-in kayaks are constructed with a closed cockpit, meaning that the paddler’s legs and feet sit inside the kayak – enclosed by the kayak deck.
Some sit-in kayaks are designed with beginning paddlers in mind, while others are designed for advanced performance.
The benefit of a sit-in kayak, especially for a beginner, is that it is designed to help develop paddling skills.
Because of the hip support and knee braces found in sit-in kayaks, paddlers can learn and practice leaning, edging, bracing, hip-snapping and rolling.
While sit-in kayaks are not necessarily ‘sink-proof’ in the same way that sit-on-tops are, good-quality sit-ins are equipped with air-tight storage hatches at their bow and stern.
These compartments keep sit-in kayaks sufficiently buoyant so that excess water can be expelled from the cockpit with a bilge pump.
If you have any desire to improve your kayaking skills, a sit-in kayak will allow you to do so better than a sit-on-top.
In my database, the average recreational sit-inside kayak weighs 48.75lbs, is 12.5’ long and 26.75” wide. (Note that sit-ins are 10lbs lighter than sit-on-tops, on average.)
Inflatable vs hardshell
Another decision that you’ll need to make is whether you want to paddle an inflatable or hardshell kayak.
Inflatable kayaks are constructed out of plastic, PVC and sometimes fabric. They are designed with a series of chambers that are filled with air to provide buoyancy and increased rigidity.
The benefit of an inflatable kayak for a beginning paddler is the convenience. Inflatable kayaks fold up like a blanket and are transported with ease. Furthermore, they can be stored on a shelf in your bedroom closet.
The downside of inflatable kayaks is their performance. If you want to meaningfully improve your kayaking skills, you’ll be hard-pressed to do so on an inflatable kayak.
Even with drop-stitch floors, they are still too flexible to learn edging, bracing, rolling and hip-snapping skills.
With that said, the performance of inflatable kayaks is improving every year. If athletic kayaking is not your main focus, then inflatable kayaks can be a worthy alternative.
In my database, the average inflatable kayak weighs 63.25 lbs, is 12.6’ long and 29.6” wide.
Hardshell kayaks are constructed out of rigid material such as plastic, carbon fiber (Kevlar), fiberglass, and even wood. The surface of hardshells is designed to remain rigid when making contact with waves, floating debris and even other paddler’s kayaks.
The key benefit of a hardshell kayak is that it allows you to learn that list of kayak skills that inflatable/sit-on-top kayaks prevent you from learning.
Also, if you get a hole in your kayak hull, it will still maintain its shape. If you get a hole in your inflatable kayak, it won’t take long before your boat looks like a magic carpet (without the magic part.)
The downside to a rigid hull is that transportation and storage are a nuisance.
A hardshell kayak takes a lot of real estate to store and, when you strap it to the roof of your vehicle, you end up driving down the street looking like a Parasaurolophus (look it up!)
In a slow, lazy-river environment, both inflatable and hardshell kayaks are perfectly appropriate for a beginning kayaker.
While my bias leans me towards hardshell kayaks (because you can become a better paddler on them), I do believe that inflatable kayaks are more at home on lazy rivers than any other place.
Other kayak characteristics for a lazy river
Length. 10-12’ is about the correct length.
A 16’ kayak is too long for a beginning paddler on a lazy river. You’ll need something smaller with more maneuverability to work your way around bends and avoid obstacles.
Width. Wider is better for beginning paddlers. A wider kayak increases its primary stability.
Look for a kayak with a width of 30”+.
Active rivers with waves and rapids
First of all, if you are a novice paddler with minimal skills, then a whitewater river run is not the best place for you.
However, if you possess some rudimentary paddling skills and are looking for your first kayak to play in whitewater, let’s discuss.
River kayaks are constructed for optimal control in volatile water. They are short, reasonably lightweight and constructed with rigid hulls. (These hulls take a beating – your pristine river kayak won’t be looking that way for long.)
Whitewater kayaking tends to be grouped into three activities: Creeking, River Running and River Play/Rodeo.
Creeking
Creeking is the negotiating of steep, low volume whitewater. If you are a beginning kayaker, you have no business getting any closer to creeking than this YouTube video.
River Running
River running is the more traditional activity of paddling through higher-volume whitewater rapids.
River Play/Rodeo
River play is characterized by doing tricks on rapids, in your kayak.
While the optimal kayak characteristics vary slightly for each of these undertakings, they do have some commonalities, as well.
River kayak hull types
River kayaks are designed with one of two hull styles: Planing hull and Displacement hull.
Planing hulls have an edge-to-edge flat bottom. These kayaks are highly agile and maneuverable in white water.
As long as the river is pushing you along, planing hulls shine. However, when you find yourself on flat water having to create your own momentum, planing hulls are not terribly fast.
Planing hulls are widely used in all three whitewater kayaking activities. However, they are almost exclusively used for River Play.
Displacement hulls have a rounder bottom that pushes water to the side, allowing the paddler to cut through flat water with greater ease and speed.
When navigating river rapids, displacement hulls are indeed agile, however less so than planing hulls.
Also, the initial stability of displacement hulls can feel a little tippy, though secondary stability kicks in once you’re bouncing along in the rapids.
River kayak chine styles
Chines are the portion of a kayak’s hull that sits below the waterline and have significant impact on how a boat handles.
Hard chines appear as strong, rigid contours on the portion of the hull that sits below the waterline.
While hard chines provide control and agility in flatter water, a strong rapid or other river element can really grip the chine, making it harder to control the kayak.
Soft chines present as a more rounded hull. Soft chines are also more forgiving than hard chines.
They provide more stability but also require more force to propel forward in flatter water.
River kayak rocker
Rocker is the amount of bow-to-stern curvature of a kayak.
The more rocker a boat has, the more agile and maneuverable it is (in experienced hands.)
The flatter the rocker, the greater the kayak’s speed and ability to track straight.
A paddler that is new to river kayaking will likely be best-served by a displacement-hull kayak with soft chines and a modest rocker.
Starting in a kayak with the above characteristics, a paddler could soon progress to a hybrid kayak with a slightly-rounded hull, a pinch of flatness and slightly harder chines.
The next step would be to a full-on play-boat that is a mere 5-6’ long with a flat planing hull and hard chines.
In my database, the average whitewater kayak (which includes Creeking, River Running and River Play boats) is 8.5’ long, 25.6” wide and weighs 42.25 lbs.
Coastal and ocean environments
First things first, it really is advisable to take a lesson or two and gather some experience in shallower water before heading out to sea. In deep water with current, wind and waves, the stakes are high while the margin for error is low.
Because the stakes are so high, new paddlers often make the mistake of purchasing a kayak that is too advanced for their novice abilities.
When they get out on the ocean, they realize how completely unstable they feel, even on calm water.
Don’t make this mistake.
For coastal and oceanic environments, touring kayaks are the only game in town. By and large, kayaks that are categorized as Recreational are insufficient for this use.
Here are some key principles to consider when buying your first touring kayak:
Seaworthiness
Is the kayak constructed to stay afloat, even in extreme conditions?
Does the kayak have bow and stern hatches to keep it from sinking, even if it gets swamped?
If you are considering a kayak that only has a watertight hatch located at the stern, then move on. It is inadequate and not seaworthy.
Body fit
Does the kayak fit your body?
If you’re not comfortable sitting in it, then it doesn’t matter who the manufacturer is or how much it costs.
You will spend hours at a time in your touring kayak. If your back is slightly sore after five minutes of sitting, think of how jacked it’s going to be after five hours of paddling.
If the fit isn’t right, move on.
Primary stability
Primary stability is the extent to which the kayak feels initially stable on flat water.
Typically, kayaks with wider hulls boast superior primary stability.
Beginning kayakers benefit from higher primary stability as they learn to paddle on calm water.
Over time, novice paddlers will graduate to choppier water that will require the higher secondary stability provided by more intermediate and advanced kayaks.
Kayak seating
Again, comfort and body fit are important. If the seat in the kayak you’re considering is uncomfortable or otherwise fits badly, consider a different seat, or consider a different kayak.
An effective kayak seat doesn’t sit too tall. Tall seats make for inefficient paddling technique.
Furthermore, tall seats make entry and re-entry more difficult.
Seats with hip support and cockpits with knee braces will help you as you learn the skills of rolling, hip-snapping, bracing, leaning and edging.
Kayak length
Touring kayaks that are less than 12-13’ are often noticeably slow. Kayaks that are longer than 17’ can be brutal for inexperienced paddlers to maneuver.
While the top speed of a longer kayak is typically higher than a shorter one, it usually takes a lot of musculature and fitness to actually reach that speed.
In terms of touring kayak length for a beginning paddler, the sweet spot is around 14-15’. This strikes the balance of superior primary stability, efficient touring speed and adequate maneuverability.
In my database, the average polyethylene touring kayak is 15.4’ long, 23” wide and weighs 52.4 lbs.
The average composite kayak is 17.6’ long, 21.6” wide and weighs 50.8 lbs. (Long, skinny, lightweight and $$$)
Materials (and price)
Touring kayaks are typically constructed from polyethylene, fiberglass or a composite (such as Kevlar.) They are rigid, hardshell boats.
The most expensive kayaks that are super-shiny and shaped like missiles are constructed from fiberglass or Kevlar. These kayaks are often light, narrow, sleek and fast.
Even though they look like elongated, powder-coated kazoos, there is still something compelling about their aesthetics.
These boats are most appropriate for advanced paddlers with developed skills and musculature.
It is likely that the most appropriate beginner touring kayak for you will be constructed from rotomolded polyethylene. It won’t be the most beautiful kayak (although it could still look quite handsome), but it will be the most effective in helping you improve your skills and maximizing your time on the water.
A note on used kayaks
I am absolutely in favor of searching out used kayaks. In fact, I am so supportive of it that I wrote an entire article and created a checklist to help folks through the process.
At the risk of being repetitive, I’ll say it anyway: Just because you find a high-end, 17’ fiberglass kayak at a great price doesn’t mean that you should use it to learn how to kayak.
Sure, if it’s a great deal buy it and store it until your abilities catch up to your kayak collection.
However, until you’ve logged some hours on a novice-level kayak and learned the skills necessary to navigate the unique challenges of coastal kayaking, stick to a seaworthy, high-stability kayak of ample (but modest) length.
Kayak fishing in rivers, lakes and oceans
Buying your first fishing kayak is a unique undertaking.
Why?
Because the reason anglers buy fishing kayaks is often different than the reason paddlers buy conventional kayaks.
More often than not, paddling enthusiasts want to develop kayaking skills and become competent paddlers. There is a desire to engage with the purity of the sport.
Anglers, however, often just want a reliable boat that will shuttle them to their honey hole.
In other words, the spiritual experience of the paddler comes from paddling while the spiritual experience of the angler is enjoyed while fishing.
Fishing kayaks are often viewed as cost-effective alternatives to motorboats. Even the most expensive fishing kayak is many thousands of dollars less than a low end, motor-powered fishing vessel.
Furthermore, fishing kayaks are more stealthy than motorboats, allowing the angler to fish locations that would be unreachable on a big, noisier, gas-guzzling vessel.
So, buying a beginning fishing kayak is different than buying a beginning touring kayak.
Is there really such thing as a fishing kayak for beginners?
In my database, the average fishing kayak weighs 104.7lbs, is 12.4’ long and 36.2” wide.
The longest boat in the sample is 13.5’, while the shortest one is 10.5’. That’s not much of a difference.
The narrowest kayak is 32” while the widest is 41.5”. That is a noticeable difference.
Check this out, though: The lightest fishing kayak in my database weighs 63lbs. The heaviest one is 178lbs. That’s a huge difference. (Interestingly, both kayaks are manufactured by the same company.)
The point is that the differences found in varying fishing kayaks are characterized by how wide they are and, especially how heavy they are.
The wider, heavier ones are more stable, more durable, constructed to house pedal drives and can haul more gear.
Perhaps most importantly, they are also the most expensive.
Most fishing kayaks are similar in length and quite wide.
So, when buying a beginner fishing kayak, the most important consideration is really how much money you want to spend.
(I wrote an article all about financing your expensive kayak habit.)
What gear do you really need on a beginner fishing kayak?
Rod holders
You’ll require a mechanism to hold your fishing rods securely while you paddle, pedal and troll.
Purchase a kayak with sufficient surface area on the deck to install the number of rod holders that is right for you.
Kayak seat
Regardless of whether you are purchasing your first fishing kayak or your seventh, you’ll need a comfortable seat.
Find one that fits your body as well as your kayak – especially if your plan is to spend entire days fishing.
Remember that the higher you sit in your kayak, the more unstable it becomes. Wider kayaks can handle higher seats.
Anchor rigging
Floating away from your fishing hole is a frustrating experience, as is putting down your rod to reposition your boat.
To avoid this nuisance, consider using an anchor trolley. Some kayaks come equipped with one while others require an aftermarket installation.
Anchor trolleys allow you to shuttle an anchor line between the bow and stern of the boat, while remaining seated in your kayak.
Depending on the anchor strategy you choose, you’ll also need some rigging line/cord, an anchor (Folding Grapnel, Bruce/Seahook/Claw, Stake-out Pole), perhaps a drift chute, and karabiners to attach everything together.
I discuss anchor usage in my article entitled: How to Cast from a Fishing Kayak.
Among the other fishing gear you might require/desire are: Fishing rods (obviously, right?) Tackle box. Paddle leash. Paddle clip. Fish grip with scale. Fish bag. Electronic fish finder. Fish finder battery. GPS. Cooler.
When buying your first fishing kayak, consider what type of fishing you want to do, where you want to do it, and how much gear you’ll need to do it right.
Oh. Also consider how much money you’ll need to spend to make it all happen.
How much weight should a beginner kayak be able to hold?
If you possess a robust body shape or you plan to load a kayak to its maximum weight limit, then this is an important question.
Rule of 2/3
This is a really informal rule-of-thumb.
The rule states that the maximum weight a kayak can hold and still paddle effectively is about 2/3 of its stated maximum weight capacity.
In reality, there is lots of hair on this dog.
Each manufacturer defines its maximum weight capacity slightly differently.
Also, 2/3 is an arbitrary number. Some say ½ of maximum weight. Others suggest ¾.
Furthermore, what does it mean to ‘paddle effectively’, anyway?
The spirit of this law is simply that you need to leave some margin of error between the manufacturer’s stated weight capacity and the actuall weight you load onto the kayak.
Keeping this margin of error should help your kayak perform better.
How much of your kayak sits under water?
Below is a more empirical treatment of how much weight your kayak can hold.
When weighed down your kayak shouldn’t sit more than about 3.5-4” below the water.
If your kayak sits deeper than 3.5-4”, it will make it difficult to paddle in shallow water. Also, paddling performance will suffer.
To calculate how much of your kayak will sit under water given a certain heavy load, use the following equation (yes, a little math. Sorry.)
LWL x BWL x Weight x Water Density X Block Coefficient = Sinkage
Now, consider the following example (that I used in an article about how to kayak in shallow water):
Kayak waterline length (LWL) = 11’
Kayak waterline beam (BWL) = 2.85’
Weight (kayak, paddler, gear) = 360 lbs
Paddling on freshwater (density).
11 x 2.85 x 360 x 62.4 x 0.65 = 0.283 feet <or > 3.39 inches.
Given the information provided, the kayak can be expected to float with about 3.39 inches of its hull below the surface of the water.
(This is not a perfect calculation. Rather, it is a back-of-the-envelope one that should still provide important insight about how much weight a kayak can handle.)
When shopping for a beginner kayak, use the Rule of 2/3 as well as the equation above to double-check that you will be compliant with the boat’s maximum weight capacity and that the kayak can be expected to sit less than 3.5-4” below the water’s surface.
If you calculate that the kayak will likely sit lower than 4”, you’ll need to consider: 1) a longer boat, 2) a wider boat, 3) bringing less gear, 4) Jenny Craig.
Transportation and storage of your beginner kayak
Having purchased your first beginner kayak, you’ll need to find a way to get it home as well as build a place to store it.
If you purchased an inflatable kayak, it will fit nicely in your trunk and store virtually anywhere in your home/garage.
If you purchased a hardshell kayak, you’ll need to be more thoughtful about how to transport and store it.
Kayak transportation
Unless you own a pickup truck (or plan to take the bus), you’ll most likely be transporting your kayak on the roof of your vehicle.
You’ll need to decide whether you want to secure the kayak onto foam pads attached to your crossbars, or whether you want to purchase a J-cradle, stacker, or some other aftermarket attachment.
Lifting your kayak onto the roof of your vehicle can be intimidating, especially if you have to do it by yourself. I explain how to do it here.
Kayak Storage
Storing your kayak is important in order to keep its material from degrading while at the same time helping to maintain its original structure for as long as possible.
If you selected an inflatable kayak as your first purchase, I wrote an article all about drying and storing inflatable kayaks. The drying process takes a little time; however, the square footage commitment to actually store the boat is minimal.
If you selected a hardshell kayak, you’ll require a little more thought and planning to effectively store it.
In brief, most hardshell kayaks should be stored on well-padded brackets or suspended by nylon-strap slings.
The brackets or slings should be spaced such that they line up with the bulkheads found inside your kayak.
Your kayak structure is strongest at the location of the bulkheads. Locating the kayak supports under the bulkheads will help your kayak maintain the integrity of its structure for a longer period of time.
If you’re storing a recreational kayak with a large cockpit, position the cockpit coaming so that it rests on the storage bars.
Ideally, you’ll store your kayak in a garage or basement. If that isn’t possible, then wrap your boat in a tight-fitting tarp and do the best you can to keep it in the shade and out of the elements.
I spend more time discussing how to store (and maintain) your kayak here.
You’re going to need to buy a paddle, as well.
If you’re buying a fishing kayak with pedals, you can probably get by with a lower-quality, less expensive paddle. Frankly, you probably won’t have enough money left over for anything else.
If you’re purchasing any other type of kayak, don’t skimp on the paddle.
I wrote an article all about how to choose a kayak paddle.
Below are a few of the key points:
Paddle Size
You’ll need a paddle that is neither too big, nor too small to do the job. Use the table below to help determine what size paddle should suite you best.
Paddle weight
The lower the swing weight of the paddle, the better the experience you’ll have in your kayak.
However, the lower the swing weight, the worse experience you’ll have with your wallet. Lighter paddles are more expensive.
Given a finite amount of money, I recommend buying a little less kayak and a little more paddle.
The best and lightest ones are typically constructed from fiberglass, carbon fiber and sometimes, even wood.
Their blades have interior foam cores that make them buoyant, lively and really enjoyable to paddle.
Blade and shaft shape
Kayak paddles are manufactured with different blade widths and in different shapes. These correspond to the angle at which you paddle.
Narrower blades are designed for lower, more leisurely paddling angles.
Wider blades are associated with high angle designs and are useful in athletic situations where you need to exert powerful strokes to move your kayak quickly.
Kayak paddles are designed with both straight and bent shafts.
Straight shafts are shaped like a broomstick with two blades at either end.
Bent shafts are shaped like a broomstick with a couple of crooked indentations where you place your hands. This design lets you keep all four fingers on the paddle as you move through your stroke.
Matched and feathered paddles. Matched paddle blades are constructed such that the angle at one end of the shaft is the same as the angle of the blade at the other end.
Feathered blades are offset at an angle to one another. If you look straight down the paddle shaft, one blade is horizontal while the other one is at some angle between 15-90 degrees.
When you test-paddle kayaks, also test-paddle kayak paddles. Figure out which of the many paddle configurations available feels best in your hands.
(Full transparency: this is probably the time where you’ll fall in love with carbon fiber paddles.)
How to buy a kayak for beginners – Parting thoughts
Buying your first kayak can be a daunting task.
Be thoughtful about how and where you plan to use it.
Test-paddle a few kayaks (and kayak paddles) from an owner-operated kayak outfitter that is staffed by experts that know more about paddling than you do.
Determine which boat feels right and is appropriate for your skill-level, and buy it from them.
Remember, this won’t be the first kayak you buy. Rather, it is the kayak you need now in order to prepare you for the next one.
If you need some ideas, check out our Top 8 Best Kayaks for Beginners.
Best of luck with your purchase!